2014 is a hugely contrasted vintage, with disappointments but also a few gems such as this Kabinett. Daniel Vollenweider provides some background to this success.
The Mosel Vintage 2014 proved a remarkably contrasted vintage with true strokes of genius right next to the ordinary (to remain polite). Never have we experienced such a huge diversity in quality and style as in 2014.
But the vintage had one major strength, at least for the successful ones: It produced some stunning Kabinett wines, among the finest since the 1990s. This includes a show-stopping Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett by Weingut Vollenweider, one of the best ever at this Estate.
Daniel Vollenweider from Weingut Vollenweider produced a staggering range of wines which completely defy the vintage. When asking him about the reasons to this success, Daniel Vollenweider put it down to being ruthless and taking though decisions early: “When the weather turned, we immediately cut our losses and decided to forget about two young parcels which had suffered quite badly. This was no easy decision (they represent 10% of our acreage!) but it was the right one. It allowed us to focus on the good parcels.”
The 2014er Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett was harvested before the “big rain” which hit the region on October 7-8 from old un-grafted vines just above the bridge. Daniel Vollenweider also puts it down to the un-grafted vines: “these withheld much better the adverse weather conditions than some of my younger vines. Also, the Wolfer Goldgrube has good drainage, which was certainly an asset in 2014.”
The result is simply staggering. While maybe stylistically closer to an “old style” Spätlese, this deliciously light wine is one of the highlights of the vintage and highly recommended. While already enjoyable now, this will age gracefully.
A review of the 2014 Vollenweider wines can be found in Part I of the 2014 Vintage Report published in Issue No 28 (June 2015). This Issue is available to subscribers on simple request. Not yet a subscriber? You can become one, free of charge, by simply registering yourself here below.
Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett
This Kabinett was harvested at a moderate 85° Oechsle. A whiff of sulfur quickly gives way to a show-stopping nose of yellow fruits, cassis, grapefruit, pear and mint which epitomizes the freshness-ripeness tension of great Wolfer Goldgrube wines. Juicy and ripe acidity comes through on the palate, making the wine seemingly dance on the tongue. The finish is crisp, sharp and focused, as one would expect from this Kabinett, with its sweetness still noticeable, but already well integrated. We cannot wait to taste this beauty at maturity! 2024-2044
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.