September 2010

The vintage 2009 allowed Mosel winemakers to produce some of the greatest dry-tasting wines in their career (see our Issue No12). This includes the von Schubert Estate, which excelled in this category of wines in this vintage. In particular, the Abtsberg Superior is a great success and on our private list of "not-to-be missed" wines in this vintage.

2009er

von Schubert

Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior

22 10

93

Wow, this is a little jewel in the making. The wine offers the most gorgeous nose of peach, tangerine and pink grapefruit, with the telltale notes of vanilla of young Abtsberg. The balance on the palate is perfect, with just enough creaminess to give persistence without compromising the sappy side of the wine. The finish is effectively dry-tasting and most beautifully balanced. This is easily the greatest Superior bottling made so far. Bravo! Now-2019+

August 2010

2009 produced tons of great Auslese. This is particularly true in the Saar, where the better wines can be particularly zestful. The von Hövel estate has established itself as a household name when it comes to produce such wines and this Auslese is a joy to drink.

2009er

von Hövel

Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

05 10

93

Wow, this is a nice wine! Harvested from the oldest vines in the Scharzhofberg, at the top of the hill, this Auslese offers an ultra pure and classy nose with smoke, mineral, lily flower, white peach and mint. The strikingly elegant and refined texture on the palate reminds one of the feine Auslese bottlings of the old days, with a sappy and extra long finish. This is racy and very impressive. 2016-2039

July 2010

As we announced already in our January Issue, 2009 is another roaring success in the Mosel. This concerns in particular the Spätlese and clean Auslese level, at which some truly remarkable wines were made, among which this breathtaking Spätlese by the Getz-Zilliken Estate.

You can read more about the great Zilliken collection in Issue No 12 of Mosel Fine Wines (July 2010), which covers Part I of our 2009 Vintage Review, and includes over 15 comprehensive reports on leading Estates such as Willi Schaefer, Schloss Lieser, Fritz Haag, etc.

2009er

Geltz-Zilliken

Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese

06 10

95

This bottling was made from the strictest of selections (it is made from the same raw material as the Grosses Gewächs, harvested at 99° Oechsle). Well, all this efforts paid off because, wow, this is a beauty! The nose offers freshness, with delicate notes of cassis and zesty exotic fruits (mango, passion fruit) all wrapped in the telltale green herby notes of the Estate. The balance on the palate is breathtaking, silky, multi-layered and incredibly precise. The wine really behaves like the sappy Auslese of the old days with a great finish offering balance, freshness and elegance. This is one of the most impressive young Spätlese we have ever tasted. 2017-2039

June 2010

Besides superb fruity-styled Kabinett and Spätlese bottlings, 2008 also generated some (not many) great dry and off-dry wines. The mother and son tandem Beate and Matthias Knebel really outdid themselves in 2008, by producing great fruity-styled wines and offering a great collection of dry and off-dry wines. We particularly enjoyed the zesty and playful acidity of the vintage captured in this "Feinherb" bottling made out of old vines from the classical part of the under-rated Brückstück vineyard in Winningen.

The "Feinherb" category stands for just off-dry or dry-tasting wines (usually anything between 10 and 30 g/l of residual sugar, depending on the acidity). The concept is nearly impossible to convey into English: Literally translated, it means "harsh in a fine way" or "delicately harsh", which are not descriptors one would immediately associate with positive feelings... However, it has been increasingly successful, especially in Germany, where it allowed to overcome the shortcomings of the traditional descriptor "Halbtrocken" (half dry) for these wines, which many consumers interpreted negatively as "half wine" or "not dry enough."

2008er

Knebel

Winninger Brückstück Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben

07 09

90

Made from the Sternberg parcel situated in the center of the vineyard, this comes over as very fruity with good aromatic precisions and surprising freshness. Despite boasting nearly 30 g/l of residual acidity, this wine is dry-tasting on the palate with nice spices and concentration. The finish conveys a joyful sense of lightness and finesse. This is very nice to drink now with food. Now-2015

May 2010

Johannes Selbach produced a great collection in 2008, "all about wonderful lightness and not about thickness" as he righfully put it. This concerns above all the three single parcel bottlings Schmitt, Anrecht and Rotlay, which Johannes produced via block harvesting (see our Issue No9 for further information about this very interesting approach to Mosel winemaking). The Zeltinger Schlossberg Spätlese 'Schmitt' particularly caught our attention thanks to its unique aromatic complexity and zesty precision.

2008er

Selbach-Oster

Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 'Schmitt'

13 09

91+

Driven by white peach on the nose, with some notes of spices and minerals, this is powerful and structured on the palate with delicately well integrated touch of creaminess. The fine structure gives the wine a sense of lightness and great fruitiness. It is already very nice now but could easily gain in stature with further bottle aging. This is very nice indeed. 2014-2028

April 2010

The 1999 vintage was marked by a hot growing season, which gave the Saar and the Ruwer one of their best vintages in recent history. We feature here one of the highlights of our comprehensive review of the 1999 vintage available in the current Issue No 11 (Apr 2010) of Mosel Fine Wines, namely a stunning Spätlese produced by the mythical Egon Müller Estate. But also other great wines were produced in this vintage by the likes of Joh. Jos. Prüm, Weinhof Herrenberg, Geltz-Zilliken, Reinhold Haart, Willi Schaefer, Karthäuserhof or Karlsmühle. Read more amout these wines by subscribing for free to Mosel Fine Wines.

1999er

Egon Müller

Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese

14 00

Auction

97

The color is vibrantly bright white-yellow and shows hardly any signs of evolution: this could have been a sample from 2007. The nose shows some great flavors of fruit but also a touch of funky stink. Somewhat closed at first, it really needs time to get rid of the stinky side and then the party really starts: fresh sappy peaches, a touch of smoke, only a hint of botrytis creaminess. This is heavenly well balanced with nicely integrated acidity. The wine is a joy to drink now but will really benefit from many more years in the bottle. We are looking forward to further tastings of this in the future. Egon Müller states that 1999 is one of the best vintages ever at his Estate and, based on this showing, one can see why. The complexity of flavors is staggering. Now-2030+

March 2010

Even in the cooler 2008 vintage, Markus Molitor produced a full range of wines, including some high-octane BA, TBA and Eiswein bottlings (expected to be released only in a few years). The Estate produced many outstanding wines (see our Issue No 9). In particular, an impressive Auslese ** from the Zeltinger Schlossberg caught our attention thanks to its inner balance, complexity and finesse.

2008er

Markus Molitor

Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese **

48 09

93

Although still quite closed and reduced, this hints at some gorgeous notes of peaches, apples and pears with a touch of honey in the background for good measure. The wine is powerful yet playful on the palate with a great sense of cool mineral freshness. The finish is zesty and multi-layered with a seemingly endless finish. This is a great success for the vintage. 2016-2033+

February 2010

Our Mosel of the month is yet another great Kabinett from the 2008 vintage, this time from young rising star Andreas Adams (Weingut A.J. Adam). He produces marvelous wines from the Dhroner Hofberg vineyard, an under-rated site whose classical parts were classified in the highest category in the taxation map of 1868. These parts are undoubtely of Grand Cru level, as we underlined in our vineyard classification (see issue No 4 - Feb 2009).

2008er

A.J. Adam

Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett

03 09

90

This is a really nice and easy drinking wine. It boasts great flavors of peaches, herbs and citrus on the nose. Balanced, zesty and fresh on the palate, it offers great flavor intensity and yet enough delineation for not being over-powering. It is a fuller version of Kabinett but a no less enjoyable one! 2012-2020

January 2010

The Klitzekleine Ring regroups ten Estates located in or around the town of Traben-Trarbach, in the Middle Mosel. Daniel Vollenweider (Weingut Vollenweider) and Konstantin Weiser (Weingut Weiser-Künstler) are two of its leading members. You can find our exhaustive review of their 2008 vintage in our Mosel Fine Wines No 8 issue.

The Bergrettung project (literally translated 'mountain rescue') was launched by this grower association in 2006 to rescue a prime parcel planted with old vines in the Enkircher Ellergrub, which was at risk of being simply abandoned. Three vintages were produced, 2006, 2007 and 2008. 2008 will be the last vintage as the project met its objectives: the parcel was taken over by a local grower and hence definitively saved. Two Bergrettung bottlings were produced in 2008: a Kabinett Feinherb (off dry) and this fruity-styled Spätlese (made by young star Konstantin Weiser). Prices are not on the shy side, but this Spätlese is fully worth the price tag.

Those of you who would like to learn more about this project should have a look at the Klitzekleine Ring website!

2008er

Der klitzekleine Ring

Riesling Spätlese Bergrettung

02 09

91

The wine initially offers very fine yeasty notes which give way to yellow peach, pineapple and spices with some airing. This Spätlese is superbly playful and zesty, with some mid-palate weight thanks to a small amount of botrytized grapes which add some creaminess and roundness. The finish is however precise, crystal clear and long. This is superbly well-made and a great success in 2008. 2014-2028

December 2009

The Erdener Prälat fared particularly well in 2008 and our Mosel of the Month for December is a tribute to the greatness of this vineyard. This botrytis-affected Auslese by Dr. Loosen is a prime example of a style of wine which suits this vineyard particularly well combining power with aromatic complexity and precision.

The forthcoming issue of Mosel Fine Wines (to be issued in January) will include an in-depth coverage of the Erdener Prälat, its history, its current potential as well as the results of a huge blind tasting.

2008er

Dr. Loosen

Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese GK

50 09

92+

This wine has developed very nicely, and displays notes of white cream, pineapple, zesty and exotic fruits, as well as almond paste. It is now a great piece of winemaking: the finish is long and powerful with great balance and nice finesse. The wine is not at all overly powerful but rather delicate, and this despite sugar levels well into BA territory (140° Oechsle). This is of auction quality and might be even more impressive in a couple of years. 2016-2030

NB: This wine was reviewed in our June issue based on a cask sample. We had the chance to taste the final bottling recently, confirming its huge potential, and have updated our evaluation accordingly.

November 2009

The Mosel of the Month for November is a great example of excellent dry-styled wine produced in the 2008 vintage by one of the leading producers of Trocken and Feinherb wines in the Mosel today: the Peter Lauer Estate in Ayl.

2008er

Peter Lauer

Riesling Schonfels Fass 11

90

The Schonfels parcel is overseeing the Saar, and is situated next to the Saarburger Fuchs vineyard. The mainly un-grafted vines are over 80 years old. Yields were very low, and only 800 liters of this juice were eventually produced. This is quite some wine. Slightly reduced at first (with notes of roasted almond), it requires some time to reveal the most lovely pure and fresh aromatics mixing green apple, citrus peel, curry powder and white pepper. The wine is plain delicious on the palate with just enough concentration but not too much to give it a good structure and grip. The finish is refined, spicy and very long. This is very nicely made! Now-2018

October 2009

The Mosels of the Month for October are two great bargains from the auctions held in Bernkastel and Trier last September 24-25, 2009. Unique bottlings are sold at these auctions and, while prices are usually high due to scarcity, prices can remain sometimes reasonable. And this was also so in 2008, at which several wines went for comparatively little money (see our report in the October issue of Mosel Fine Wines). This was in particular true for the two wines featured this month, which were hammered off respectively for €25 and €11 (excl. commissions, shipping, duties and VAT)

2008er

Willi Schaefer

Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese

06 09

Auction

93+

This is a great Spätlese in the making with, at this stage, ripe yellow peaches and a touch of pineapple for good measure on the nose. Obviously marked by botrytis, the wine is superbly balanced and remarkably intense on the palate with a creaminess making the finish seem endless. This looks like a real smasher! 2015-2033 (Hammer Price: €25)

2008er

Bastgen

Kestener Paulinshofberger Riesling Spätlese 'Auf den Felsen'

09 09

Auction

91

Made from 100 year old vines in the parcel "Auf den Felsen", this is very impressive. It offers great flavors of white peaches in a very cool and under-toned style. The wine is sappy and racy on the palate with well integrated acidity and a yoghurt-zesty touch reminiscent of classical Fritz Haag wines. The finish is nicely playful, fresh and moderately long. This is a nice Spätlese made in a light clean and joyful style. 2014-2023 (Hammer Price: €11)

September 2009

We decided to feature two wines this month: a stylish and racy Kabinett from the 2008 vintage and a stunning auction Spätlese from the 2002 vintage (after all: September is auction season!).

2008er

Schloss Saarstein

Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Kabinett

09 09

90

2008 was not an easy vintage in the Saar but this light stylish Kabinett nicely underlines that greatness was possible. This wine has been reviewed in our first part of our extensive 2008 Vintage Report which is still available. It covers over 20 Estates, including Schloss Saarstein.

This Kabinett is a blend of four casks (Fuders), of which one was fermented using ambient yeasts. The result of this spontaneous fermentation was still showing somewhat on the nose with notes of reduction and this could put off some people. But not to worry, underneath this blanket, the wine offers complex and precise flavors of white peach, grilled almond, rose water and smoke. There is a great sense of sappiness and playfulness on the palate which is enhanced by the low alcohol level (7.5%). This is plain delicious and a great success for this vintage. 2013-2023

2002er

Joh. Jos. Prüm

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

18 03

Auction

96

In advance of the annual auctions to be held in Bernkastel and Trier, we have chosen to also highlight a stunning auction wine, which we had the chance to retaste recently. It underlines nicely the potential quality achieved by these rare and expensive bottles.

This has evolved beautifully and is now a stunner of a wine! There is still some stink on the nose at first but this disappears quite rapidly. It offers layers upon layers of with sappy white peaches, flowers and minerals on the nose. The integration of flavors is simply breathtaking and leaves one speechless. The sense of perfection continues on the palate with excellent sappy acidity and great clean and pure creaminess (without being overpowering) on the finish. It is still very young and the dry extract on the palate is just increadible: this is punchy and impressive. This is as good a Spätlese can be. Now-2032+