November 1, 2015 | News | Wines of the Month

Günther Steinmetz Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling 2014 Label

2014er Günther Steinmetz Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling

Stefan Steinmetz produced a mind-blowing collection of wines in 2014, crowned by a stunning Wintricher Ohligsberg. Read the story.

Mosel Vintage 2014 | Highly Contrasted with Some True Gems

The Mosel Vintage 2014 proved a remarkably contrasted vintage with true strokes of genius right next to the ordinary (to remain polite). Never have we experienced such a huge diversity in quality and style as in 2014.

In the course of the last weeks, the leading Estates released their major dry and dry-tasting wines. As we reported in Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 29 (Oct 2015) published a few weeks ago, the better ones are also quite remarkable as they prove to be packed with flavors yet refreshingly light in alcohol. There is hardly any wine with more than 12-12.5% of alcohol as many Mosel winemakers realize that alcohol is their enemy. Also, the need to be overly strict with the selecting out botrytis grapes left most Estates with grapes showing actually quite moderate sugar levels.

Among these, the collection of dry-tasting wines by Weingut Günther Steinmetz stood out, with nearly all 15 wines proving outstanding! This amazing collection is crowned by a magical 2014er Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling.

Günther Steinmetz | From Humble Origins to Cutting Edge Terroir Wizard

The Weingut Günther Steinmetz is not one born with a silver spoon in the mouth: No Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Erdener Prälat in family hands since generations. This is one of these many honest growers, who gradually, generation after generation, acquired some small parcels here and inherited some others there.

Mind you, the Estate did have a few prime parcels in the Brauneberger Juffer. But the bulk of the holding was situated in less glamorous (even if very good) sites in Kesten, Mülheim, Brauneberg and Veldenz.

In comes young Stefan Steinmetz. He has an eye for good terroir. Read for yourself: He single-handedly brought the forgotten Wintricher Geierslay back on the map, took over parcels in the Wintricher Ohligsberg, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Dhroner Hofberg and Kestener Paulinshofberg, always in prime sectors, mostly vineyards still planted with very old vines. His latest coup is his Piesporter Treppchen Terrassen, which comes from a steep hill vineyard (still planted with 90 year-old vines), which had the bad fortune of being integrated into the mostly flat and non-saying Piesporter Treppchen in the course of the 1971 vineyard reform.

Estate Photo | Weingut Günther Steinmetz | Mosel

Besides the terroir, Stefan Steinmetz is rooted in traditional winemaking and relies on spontaneous fermentation with (partial) malolactic fermentation going through in parallel. He lets his dry wines stop their fermentation naturally, which means that these may end up with some residual sugar (however rarely more than 20 g/l), like in the old days. Over the years, he perfected this style and the wines have gained in elegance and refinement without losing any of the aromatic presence and complexity.

2014 is, so far, the crowning jewel in this evolution. To put it in direct terms, this is now one of the best Estates of the region, working some of the hottest vineyards in the Mosel. Should you believe that Stefan Steinmetz can only "do" dry-tasting wines, wait until you have tasted his set of 2014 Spätlese ... And last but not least: prices have (not yet) caught up with quality!

Günther Steinmetz | Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling 2014

In 2013, Stefan Steinmetz was able to snatch up a small parcel in the upper part of the south-facing (and original) part of the Ohligsberg planted with 40-45 year-old vines.

Vineyard Photo | Wintricher Ohligsberg | Mosel

As Stefan Steinmetz explained, “The 2014 Ohligsberg was made from clean ripe fruit harvested with a comparatively tame 90° Oechsle and only saw stainless steel. The wine then naturally stopped its fermentation with 17 g/l of residual sugar and got bottled in May.”

The result is staggering: This proves one of the most exciting wines we tasted from the 2014 vintage and well worth highlighting as wine of the month!

A review of the stunning 2014 Günther Steinmetz wines can be found in Part II of the 2014 Vintage Report published in Issue No 29 (Oct 2015). This Issue is available to subscribers on simple request. Not yet a subscriber? You can become one, free of charge, by simply registering yourself here below.

Tasting Note | Extract from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 29 (Oct 2015)


Günther Steinmetz

Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling

14 15


This immediately captivates the senses through a shy but ravishingly complex nose of dried herbs, some spices and a hint of green herbs. As the wine gains with some airing, some subtle scents of grapefruit and lime come through, packed into a sea of minerals on the palate. The finish returns to the herbs and spices theme, which woe for presence in the gorgeously long and elegant after-taste. This is a stunning wine in the making and one with even huge upside! 2017-2029

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