This highlight from our extensive 2007 Retrospective epitomizes everything great about the vintage: Purity, zest and elegance.
Mature Riesling is one of the great pleasures of the wine world. This is why, every year, we dedicate the Spring Issue of Mosel Fine Wines to this topic in a bid to have our readers try it for themselves.
In the just released Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 34 (Apr 2017), we reviewed over 250 wines from the 2007 vintage. At the top, 2007 delivered some stunningly pure and juicy fruity wines which completely transcend the ripe reputation of the vintage.
One wine that shone through is the 2007er Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese by Joh. Jos. Prüm. In addition to epitomizing everything great about 2007, it is still commercially available at the Estate.
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm is one of the grand names in the world of Riesling. It has established its reputation on the legendary aging abilities of its ethereally light wines. Wines from decades ago can still be as fresh as a daisy.
What is also remarkable about this Estate is that it regularly releases some mature Riesling (sometimes up to 15-20 years old) to its customers. We reviewed a whole set of these late-released Riesling by Joh. Jos. Prüm in the Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 32 (October 2016) ranging back to 1998. These wines offer a great way for Riesling lovers to access grand mature Mosel Riesling with pristine provenance.
Ask any wine lovers what "J. J. Prüm" stands for: The first answer is unlikely to be Bernkastel. And yet the Estate owns vineyards in the Bernkasteler Badstube since almost as long as it exists, as Katharina pointed out: “My grandmother came from a famous winemaking dynasty in Bernkastel and we have been tending vineyards on the Bernkasteler hill since the late 1920s.” The Estate was set up in 1911.
Today, the Estate has grown its holdings in the Badstube to just over 2 ha, of which 25% are situated in prime parts of the Bernkasteler Lay. The Estate regularly bottles the Bernkasteler Lay separately. It did so for instance in 2015, where this vineyard produced one of the Noble-Sweet Highlights of the vintage. This was however not the case in 2007.
The remarkable thing about this 2007er Badstube Auslese is that, despite the ripeness of the vintage, the wine remains light and fruity and only plays on the purity and complexity of the vintage.
The Badstube wines from Joh. Jos. Prüm do often not get the same public recognition as their better-known siblings despite often getting similar ratings in our annual Vintage reviews of the Estate. This spectacular 2007er Auslese is a great reminder not to overlook these fine bottlings.
More mature Mosel by Joh. Jos. Prüm
were reviewed in Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 34 (Apr 2017) and Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 32 (Oct 2016).
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Joh. Jos. Prüm
Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese
This bottle of 2007er Bernkasteler Badstube comes from a batch re-released by the Estate in 2016. It offers a gorgeous nose of yellow canned peach, laurel and red currant, wrapped into some delicately waxy cream. The feel on the palate is superbly elegant and airy as the inner sweetness has completely transformed into silky beeswax. The finish is plain gorgeous, both elegant and refined. What a wine! Now-2037
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling ... and beyond!"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.