2018: Only about ripeness and low acidity? No, as Julian Haart showed with this brilliant dry Riesling.
2018 is a ripe and consumer-friendly vintage characterized by fruit and mild acidity. For lovers of racy Mosel, is there therefore little to cheer? Not really, as we explain in the just-published Part I of our 2018 vintage report: A few growers completely defied the ripe DNA of the vintage and produced some truly stunningly fresh and racy wines.
One of these Estates is Weingut Julian Haart. Its 2018er Piesporter stands exemplary of the greatness of dry Mosel Riesling.
Andreas Adam (in the meantime joined by his sister Barbara) relaunched the family Estate in 2000 after his grandparents had stopped it in 1983.
Young Julian Haart is a sibling of the famous Haart family in Piesport (he is related to Johannes Haart from Weingut Reinhold Haart, though most closely through their respective mothers’ side rather than through the Haart line). He managed to make a (fore)name for himself in a record short amount of time, turning out some stunning wines right from his 2010 debut vintage (see Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 16 of June 2011 for the Estate Review of his first vintage).
Unsurprisingly, this Estate's wines regularly made it as Issue highlights. This includes its 2013er Wintricher Ohligsberg Spätlese in July 2014 and its 2014er Piesporter Schubertslay Kabinett in September 2015.
In 2018, Julian Haart crafted a collection which completely defies the ripe and blousy nature of the vintage. As he explains, “the weather conditions were actually challenging as there was too much sun. Right from the start, I felt that there were too many grapes hanging in the vineyards. Consequently, we decided to limit the yields by cutting out some grapes [green harvesting] during the summer. We also made sure that the grapes had as much shadow from the leaves as possible so that they would not get ripe and golden too quickly. Lastly, we decided to start our harvest early, on September 18, in order to preserve the freshness and playful side of our wines.”
The core of Weingut Julian Haart are his 3 ha of vineyards spread over the different parts of the Grand Cru Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. Its 2018er Piesporter comes exclusively from this prime vineyard, despite “only” being a village wine.
This wine, which is legally dry wine even if it is not mentioned on the label, saw some mash-fermentation. As Julian explained, “we did this to see how to give our wines substance in ever earlier harvests as we clearly experience climate change.”
The result is a spectacular success: This wine proves absolutely remarkable in its aromatic definition and precision.
In addition, the Estate was able to produce good quantities of this wine so the chances are higher, so that you may find some in your market. Should it not be available, switch to any other wine by this Estate in the 2018 vintage: They are remarkable!
The amazing 2018 collection by Weingut A.J. Adam
was reviewed in the Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 46 (June 2019).
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The 2018er Piesporter, as it is referred to on the consumer label, comes from grapes harvested in the Goldtröpfchen and was for half mash-fermented down to legally dry levels of residual sugar (6 g/l). It proves superbly open for business and delivers a gorgeous nose of almond cream, yellow peach, candied citrus, spices and minty herbs. Juicy fruits are nicely wrapped into smoky herbs and juicy acidity on the gorgeously focused and structured on the palate. The wine is still slightly tart in the delicately round finish at this early stage, but this tartness will melt into the flavors of this superb Riesling in a few years. What a huge success for a “mere” Village wine! 2023-2038
© Text by Mosel Fine Wines "The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling ... and beyond!"
Disclaimer: Mosel Fine Wines is an independent publication and has no commercial relationship with any Estate, association or organization featured in this article.